Whale watching in Dominica

For whale watching in Dominica, I decided to join the pioneers- the Anchorage Whale Watch and Dive Center, who have been doing excursions for over 20 years, based out of the Anchorage Hotel just south of Roseau.

Dominica, known as the whale watching capital of the Caribbean, is reputed to have some of the best whale watching in the world, so it's something I definitely had to do while on the island.

A major reason for whale watching excellence is that Dominica has very deep waters (over 1000 metres close to shore and over 4000 metres in the Grenada basin further out), which hold the necessary food sources (such as large squid) for whales to thrive. And family units of female, juvenile and immature Sperm whales call Dominica home, staying for many months at a time (mature males come back to the island for mating). The high mountains of Dominica also create a barrier to the trade winds, creating a calm leeward western side, making whales and dolphins easier to spot.

In total, 23 different Sperm whale families have been recorded here.

Other whale species recorded in Dominica include:

- Humpbacks and Brydes (yearly, from January to April)

- The rarely seen beaked whales (Gervaise and Cuvier)

- Dwarf Sperm whales (also very rare)

Dolphin species (some confusingly called whales) often seen in Dominica include:
- Pantropical Spotted (in pods of up to 1000)
- Fraser (with a pink belly)
- Bottlenose (in pods of 8-20 individuals)
- False Killer whales
- Pilot whales
- Melon-headed whales
- Orcas (very rare)

In total, an estimated 30 species of cetacean (whales and dolphins) have been sighted in Caribbean waters.  

They are supporters of the Dominica Sperm Whale Project run by a Canadian Marine Biologist Shane Gero and have detailed scientific records going way back, so they really are the experts. In addition, they are committed to the concept of “raising a nation of conservationists through environmental education”, offering complimentary and highly discounted tours to pre-primary, primary and secondary school students, as well as to visiting educational institutions.

The whale watching excursion started with our guide, Pernell, telling us interesting facts about all the whales and dolphins in Dominica. Below is the skeleton of a female Sperm whale which had died and was then washed ashore. Its skeleton was then reassembled by a team of biologists at the Anchorage interpretative center. As part of Pernell's explanation, interesting to know is that the Sperm whale has the largest brain of any living animal (up to 9 kg). Males weigh 60 tons and females 35. Newborn calves weigh in at one ton. 

There's great information to read up about whales at the Anchorage.

After our talk, we set off on their large catamaran, the Passion.

In the background as we left was the southern tip of the island: Scott's Head.

Then we headed north along the coast, past Roseau.

Here we are on board.

Pernell at the front of the catamaran looking out for whales (you can just see the telltale white spout of water to the right of the picture).

Our group looking out.

It was an exciting moment as we approached the Sperm whales. In this group was a new born calf- only two days old, belonging to a whale called Fingers: all the whales are given names by researchers so that they can be monitored over time, being most easily recognised by the markings on their tail fins

We were extremely lucky to see such a young calf. Whales only give birth every four years (suckling for up to six years). Now, the team will have to think of a name for this calf, as they come out to monitor it.

The family stayed at the surface for an unusually long time (due to having the suckling calf), before diving down and then resurfacing soon after. Otherwise, whales usually surface for 8-15 minutes before holding their breath for up to two hours as they dive down to up two miles (around 10,000 feet or 3300 metres).

Taking photos of the whales.

After the first group disappeared, we listened for the song of underwater whales through a hydrophone, and thus began to track a second group. They were further north and when we approached them we found out that the group was comprised of eight individuals.

All very active in the rough afternoon waters. Here are a couple of video clips.

After our great sightings and on the way back, our smiling captain served guava rum punches.

What a great touch.

The scenic view of clouds building over the Dominica mountains as we headed south.

Back past Roseau in the late afternoon.

The Passion coming in to shore.

Sunset after an afternoon of whale watching and being on the water. What an amazing experience!

The Anchorage conducts whale watching excursions on Wednesdays and Saturdays (and Sunday by group reservation), from 1:30-5:30 pm. The cost is US$50 per person and reservations can be made via reservations@anchoragehotel.dm   For me, it has been one of the highlights of Dominica. Highly recommended.

This is the Anchorage Hotel, on the Castle Town seafront near Roseau. It's a perfect place for those keen on all the marine and land-based activities that the hotel organises, or for simply relaxing by the pool.

Double rooms start at US$95, with options for single to quad room and views over the pool or directly out to sea.

Double tank dives cost US$75 and there are a range of scuba courses to choose from.

The hotel also conducts tours around the island. A half day, minimum four people, is US$50 per person.

All rates are exclusive of taxes.

For further information on hotel and excursion rates, please visit Anchorage Hotel