Dominica, located between Martinique and Guadeloupe, is for nature lovers, adventurers, hikers, divers and for those wanting to get away from it all.
Its landscape is dominated by 4000-foot volcanic peaks, lush rainforests (covering most of the island), waterfalls and tumbling rivers, hot sulphur springs and crater lakes, empty black sand and rock beaches, rugged cliffs and crystal clear seas with vertical drop-offs close to shore and whales further out.
The population is small, only 73,000, with most people living in and around the colonial capital Roseau. The rest are in small and scattered coastal towns, fishing villages and mountain communities, where you’ll find the friendliest and most welcoming of people. You’ll see fishing boats bringing in marlin and mahi mahi and small mountain plots of banana, taro, coconut, pineapple, grapefruit, cinnamon, cocoa, coffee, and a whole range of vegetables and herbal teas. Local cuisine incorporates all these healthy ingredients and street markets abound.
The local languages are English and Creole, with French being widely spoken. East Caribbean Dollars are the currency but US Dollars are also widely accepted. Prices for food, transport and accommodation are reasonable.
Tourism is undeveloped, low-key and limited to small privately-owned hotels and lodges. Divers and sun-worshippers tend to choose oceanfront hotels on the west coast. Hikers and those seeking peace in the cooler mountains and rainforests will stay in cottages up in the hills. Finally, for those wanting comfort and luxury in designer accommodation, there is a good selection of boutique hotels, nature resorts and eco-lodges, in stunning locations around the island. Following is a recommendation of a few of the best places to stay in Dominica.
ACCOMMODATION
Roseau
Anchorage Hotel, on the Castle Comfort waterfront, south of Roseau, with 32 rooms, a pool, dive and whale watch center, oceanview restaurant and lounge. US$95-160 per double room, excluding taxes. www.anchoragehotel.dm
Castle Comfort Lodge, a dive lodge on the waterfront south of Roseau, has 14 rooms, a garden, plunge pool and dive centre (Dive Dominica). Seven night packages including transfers, accommodation, breakfast, 10 dives, plus unlimited shore diving and taxes start at US$999 per person, in a shared double room. www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com
Castle Comfort Lodge, a dive lodge on the waterfront south of Roseau, has 14 rooms, a garden, plunge pool and dive centre (Dive Dominica). Seven night packages including transfers, accommodation, breakfast, 10 dives, plus unlimited shore diving and taxes start at US$999 per person, in a shared double room. www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com
Fort Young Hotel, in the 18th century fort on the Roseau waterfront, with 71 rooms, a pool, jacuzzis, sundeck, spa, gym, bars, restaurant, duty-free shopping, dive and activities centre. US$85-250 per double room, excluding taxes. www.fortyounghotel.com/
Le Petit Paradis, in the village, with gardens, forest and mountain views, family atmosphere, bar and restaurant, rooms and cottage-style accommodation, some with kitchens. US$20-45 per double, excluding taxes. www.lepetitparadisdominica.com
Tia's Spa and Bamboo Cottages, in the village, with gardens, forest views, sulphur hot pools, mountain stream, family atmosphere, bar and restaurant. From US$65 per double, including taxes.
Roseau Valley- Trafalgar
Cocoa Cottages, located on the mountain road just below the village of Trafalgar, and built in local wood and stone, has gardens full of cocoa trees and tropical forest. There are six double rooms. On a single occupancy basis, they cost US$100 and for a double occupancy $125, excluding the 10% island taxes. The 7th night is free. There is a 20% discount, if staying two or more nights, for the canyoning excursions which they also organise. For further information on Cocoa Cottages and the canyoning, please visit www.cocoacottages.com
Papillote Wilderness Retreat, in 10 acres of rainforest and botanic gardens, with waterfalls, natural hot pools, large private garden cottages, bar and restaurant with mountain views. US$115-130 per double, excluding taxes. www.papillote.dm
Interior - Pont Casse/Morne Trois Pitons
Harmony Villa, is the first house on the right on the Layou road from the Pont Casse roundabout. Built in a colonial style, with large verandas and set in two acres of gardens, this mountain retreat has four bedrooms, sleeping eight adults. There are also fold-out and day beds which could sleep up to four children. Rates vary from US$250 per night for the use of one bedroom up to US$550 for four bedrooms. For each additional person (after eight), the charge is US$40 per night. Rates exclude the 10% service charge. Minimum stays are two nights. There are discounts for week-long stays. www.harmonyvilla.com
Pointe Baptiste Estate, former home of Elma Napier, author of Black and White Sands, and still owned and managed by the Napier family, is near Calibishie and set in 25 acres of grounds on a clifftop overlooking northeast Dominica and the islands of Guadeloupe, Les Saintes and Marie-Galante. There are tropical gardens, orchards and a coastal forest, as well as trails down to secluded black and white sand beaches, coves and headlands. The 1930s main house (rented out from US$270-350 per day, depending on season, for six people, including taxes and a cook) and two cottages (from US$80-110 per day for two people) are full of character and history. www.pointebaptiste.com
Sea Cliff Cottages, near Calibishie, with five self-catering cottages (for 2-5 people) in several acres of grounds overlooking secluded beaches (the nearest being Hodges), headlands and rivers- all easily accessible, as is the village of Calibishie. US$80-155 per cottage per night, depending on cottage and season. www.dominica-cottages.com
Pagua Bay House, near Marigot, in gardens overlooking the bay, with spacious and modern designer cottages, wooden decks, hilltop bar and grill. US$150-320 per double, taxes included.
Rosalie Bay Resort, in private gardens behind Rosalie beach, with luxurious and modern cottages, pool, gym, spa, bar and restaurant, river and ocean views, turtle conservation project. US$185-450 per double, excluding taxes. http://www.rosaliebay.com
Southeast coast
Zandoli Inn, an intimate Mediterranean-Caribbean style villa, with five exquisite rooms overlooking Grand Bay, set amongst six acres of gardens and forest, with a plunge pool, terraces and a path leading to translucent waters at the base of a cliff. US$145 per double, excluding taxes. www.zandoli.com
Hideout Cottage, reminiscent of a Swiss mountain hut on a Dominican organic farm, and ideal for a small self-catering group, is located on the bucolic Geneva river in Grand Bay. US$60-80 for two people in the cottage, US$10-15 per extra person. www.hideout.ch
Southeast coast
Zandoli Inn, an intimate Mediterranean-Caribbean style villa, with five exquisite rooms overlooking Grand Bay, set amongst six acres of gardens and forest, with a plunge pool, terraces and a path leading to translucent waters at the base of a cliff. US$145 per double, excluding taxes. www.zandoli.com
Hideout Cottage, reminiscent of a Swiss mountain hut on a Dominican organic farm, and ideal for a small self-catering group, is located on the bucolic Geneva river in Grand Bay. US$60-80 for two people in the cottage, US$10-15 per extra person. www.hideout.ch
Northwest coast
Picard Beach Cottages, set in lush gardens behind a long sweeping beach in Prince Rupert Bay, is an ideal place to relax, or as a base to dive in the northwest and explore the island. There are 18 wooden cottages, each with a kitchenette, dining area, double ensuite room and veranda. US$120-220 depending on season and grade of accommodation. www.picardbeachcottages.com
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
There are no direct international flights to Dominica from countries outside the Caribbean. Some of the flights coming into the Caribbean include American Eagle/Iberia to Puerto Rico, Air Canada/BA/Virgin/BMI to St Lucia, Antigua, Barbados, Air Caraibes to Martinique or Guadeloupe, and KLM to St Maarten. At the time of my research, the best priced flights from Europe to the Caribbean, were from Paris to Martinique and Guadeloupe with Air Caraibes. These French islands, in addition, are the closest to Dominica, which can be reached by ferry or flight.
For onward flights to Dominica, the most comprehensive inter-island air service is provided by LIAT.
For onward flights to Dominica, the most comprehensive inter-island air service is provided by LIAT.
The Expess des Iles fast ferry connects Dominica to Guadeloupe, Martinique and St Lucia several times weekly.
All visitors need to show a return ticket to be allowed entry into Dominica. In 2011, the departure tax, by sea or air, was EC$69/US$23.
Cheap (US$1-5 per trip), regular and serving all points on the island are minibuses. Beware that there are very few minibuses running on Sundays and holidays, and the more remote parts of the island only have several a day (plan to leave in the morning and check the last returning time). You can stop minibuses at the side of the road by sticking out your hand. In central Roseau, unmarked bus stops to different parts of the island are located on various street corners (you have to ask around, but generally buses north head from the New Market area, south from the Old Market area and to Wotten Waven/Trafalgar/Laudat from outside the Botanic Gardens main gate). Buses fill up with passengers before departing their starting point (the wait is usually 10 minutes, but can be up to an hour for remote areas; the best times to travel are 7-9 am, 1 pm, 3-4 pm). Minivans are marked by HA number plates and instead of destinations written on them, they'll have humorous but unhelpful slogans such as Persistence and Legacy (these are the ones to Wotten Waven).
Hitching lifts in the countryside and remote areas is common practice, generally safe and easy (and sometimes a necessity when minibuses are scarce).
Cars can be rented through the major hotels and travel agencies.
INFORMATION FOR CRUISING SAILORS
Please refer to the useful information in Noonsite:
http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/Dominica
