One rainy Saturday, I took a minivan bus across the island to the Carib Territory.
It's a 3,700-acre reserve (formalized in 1903) on the mountainous east coast of Dominica and was established for the descendants of the indigenous Carib people (or Kalinago), who inhabited Dominica prior to European colonization. Dominica is one of the few places in the Caribbean where Carib people survived, in part due to the east coast's remoteness and lack of development.
The Carib population in Dominica remained largely isolated from the rest of the island throughout most of the 20th century. Now, the present population is estimated at 3,000 and like other Amerinidian communities in South America, residents share communal ownership of all land.
I decided to get dropped off at the side of the road in a village where the L'Escalier Tête-chien, or the Snake's staircase (direct translation: dog head staircase), is located. It's a lava feature resembling a snake emerging from the sea, and is part of Carib mythology, so it sounded interesting to see.
I jumped out into the pelting rain and ran for shelter in a bus stop. Next door, a rickety bar was overflowing with Saturday Carib beer drinkers. I think they were slightly bemused by my appearance. There in the bus stop, I chatted to a few of the guys, Amerindian-African in appearance, some reserved, others enebriated and wanting to be my guides.
Once the rain ceased, I followed a path towards the sea and got to the village karbet (a traditional village ceremonial and events hall).
With its high thatched roof, it was similar to those I saw in the Amazon. The posts were decorated in a basket weave.
Further on, a field of cassava, also a typical Amerindian staple.
Here is an artisitic representation of the creation of the lava snake, painted on a wall by the path.
Volcanic boulder rocks cover the slopes leading down to the sea.
Then, I reached a viewpoint, looking out over the rugged east coast.
You can see why this coast remained undeveloped.
As the path reaches the top of a low cliff, the lava snake comes into view. Emerging out of the sea, it meanders up to where I took this photo.
I walked down to the rough sea and then as dark grey clouds and heavy rain approached, I found shelter in a small cave for the next twenty minutes. Looking back at the painting, it's where the two Amerindians were blowing smoke out of their mouth onto the menacing serpent.
