The Tamarind on Canouan island

Across from the pier in Charlestown (the main entry point for ferries and yachts to Canouan island) is the Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club.

It is set amongst gardens behind a long stretch of beach on a quiet part of the bay- a perfect place to unwind. 

From its private pier, one can watch yachts coming in to anchor. Canouan is located in the central Grenadines, so most people sailing through this beautiful island chain will stop off in Canouan for a couple of days. The waters offshore from the Tamarind and Charlestown are in a protected bay, on the leeward side of the island. Thus, the hotel becomes a sort of gathering point for yachties, who come to have a cold beer at the Pirate Cove bar and mingle with guests. It's a great place to meet sailors and listen to stories of their adventures.  

The bar and dining areas are under Polynesian style thatched buildings, looking out to sea and surrounded by lush tropical gardens. In the Palapa restaurant, the cuisine is Caribbean-Italian, with a focus on seafood. Barbeques are also a regular feature and of course, being Italian-owned, the Tamarind has a great selection of sorbets and ice-creams.

Accommodation looks out from french windows and patios over gardens, the white sand beach and calm bay. There are forty rooms in total, in several categories, and all emphasise the use of wood, natural light and space, to give a natural, uncluttered and relaxed feel.

 

Of course, in a place like this, most of the time will probably be spent outdoors. There's the beautiful beach with calm shallow turquoise waters, literally on the doorstep. Bring a good book to read on one of the loungers. There are also plenty of outdoor activities, with a dive centre by the hotel (diving on Canouan is very good, surrounded as it is by coral reefs), as well as chances to sail, fish, windsurf, kayak, snorkel and explore the island. There are also boat excursions to surrounding islands and the Tobago Cays marine park.

 

With an ideal setting in which to relax and lots of outdoor and underwater activities available, it's a great base for several days on Canouan.  

Rates at the Tamarind start at US$260 plus taxes per double per night, on a bed and breakfast basis, inclusive of non-motorized water sports, wifi and transfers to and from Canouan airport. For further information, please visit www.tamarindbeachhotel.com

Firefly Plantation

From the 1760s until the mid 1800s, sugar production was the most important economic activity on the island of Bequia. There were nine sugar plantations by the time of the demise of the industry (mainly due to competition from countries outside the Caribbean, sugar beet production in Europe and the emancipation of the islands' slaves).

One of the old sugar plantation houses can still be seen today. It's on the northeastern side of Bequia behind Spring Bay and is now part of the luxury Firefly Plantation Hotel. I got there by walking over the hill from Port Elizabeth in the heat of the day.

Entering the grounds, the old plantation house and sugar mill looks much as it would have in the 18th century, with original stonework and wooden beams in place.

Further up the hill, there was a view over this 30 acre property, which goes all the way down to Spring beach.

It's still a working plantation, not with sugar anymore, but with orchards of citrus trees, mangos, palms, bananas, breadfruit, guava, Bequia plums, along with herb gardens.

It was mango season when I visited and big old shady trees were laden with them.

One of the workers was carrying a large bunch of coconuts up to the kitchens.

These are the Bequia plums, which I had never seen before. Inside, they are white and juicy.

It's a place to relax and get away from it all. Apart from the occasional old land rover passing on the beach road, hardly a soul comes over to this side of the island. All you hear are the distant waves breaking on the reef, crickets in the garden and the rustle of leaves as the breeze picks up.

There are four large and comfortable guest rooms, up the hill behind the lodge, with their wonderful views over the palm plantation to the protected waters of Spring Bay.

Then, there is the Plantation Cottage, a house in its own right, overlooking the lawns of the garden and the mango trees further down. Bathed in natural sunlight and painted in a cool cream colour, it has two bedrooms, a large open-plan lounge, dining area and kitchen. Outside, there are two balconies. This would be a perfect place for a family.

The lounge, restaurant and bar area is built on the crest of rise, below large shady trees, overlooking the pool and palm trees. It's open on all sides to the breezes and is built of wood and stone, so it's a good place to rest in the heat of the day. Fruit, vegetables and herbs from the plantation are used in the cooking and there are local fruit juices and drinks available at the bar.

The guest rooms are US$395 per night and the Plantation Cottage is US$795. Rates are based on two people sharing and include breakfast and afternoon tea, but exclude taxes. A Best of Both Worlds Special full-board package combining four nights at Firefly Plantation Hotel on Bequia and four at Firefly Mustique, along with transfers between islands is US$2499 per person, excluding taxes. For further information, please visit www.fireflybequia.com

The Frangipani, Bequia

My base in Bequia for five nights was the charming Frangipani Hotel, known locally as the Frangi.

Located on the waterfront, it's the sort of place where you could sit on deck chairs for hours on end and watch the slow pace of life go by in Admiralty Bay. Fishermen and children would walk past, by the water's edge. Yachties would tie up their inflatable boats on the pier and then come to the Frangi for a beer and to catch up on news of home from their netbooks. Almost everyone who visits Bequia ends up going at least once to this island meeting place. Even Harrison Ford has been seen propping up the bar, casually dressed in shorts and tshirt and talking to locals.

The Frangi has an al-fresco dining area, where, amongst other things, they serve a great traditional English fry-up and strong pots of coffee for breakfast. There is also very good seafood and on Thursday night, a barbeque and a steel band attracts yachties and locals alike.

The Frangi has a fascinating history.

In 1897, this strip of land along the waterfront was bought by James "Harry" Mitchell, a descendant of Scottish immigrants and African slaves, for his wife as a wedding gift. For this boat-building family, the land was used for constructing wooden schooners and fishing boats. Then, after a devastating hurricane in 1927, the two-storey stone and wood house, with its steep roof (as protection against strong winds) was built in 1931. It still stands to this day, with many of the original features and materials in place.

Over the next thirty years, the downstairs section was used as a chandlery and storage area, while the upstairs, with a view over the bay, was the living quarters.

In 1939, the Gloria Colita, largest of all the wooden schooners ever built on Bequia, was launched from the property. A year later, while transporting trade goods, it was found drifting and battered in the Bermuda Triangle, with all crew missing, including Reginald Mitchell (Harry's son).

Twenty-something years later, in 1967, the Frangipani was opened as a hotel, by James "Son" Mitchell (Reginald's son). He had returned to his birthplace from agricultural studies and work in Trinidad, Canada and Europe, at a time when tourism in the Caribbean was begining to take off.

In the following years, while running the hotel and bringing up a family, James became a political representative in the Grenadine islands. This was the start of his political career, which took him on to becoming a Premier in the 70s (before independence in 1979), setting up the NDP party and then serving as Prime Minister of St Vincent and the Grenadines, for four consecutive terms from 1984 to 2001.

James and his siblings were delivered by the island's only midwife in what is now room number 1 at the front of the original house. It happened to be the room I was staying in and I think it's the first time I've slept in a Prime Minister's birthplace. I felt quite honoured.

James is now retired and lives again on Bequia, back in his house in the grounds of the Frangipani. Casually-dressed in his shorts and shirt and blending in with the yachties, no guest would ever think he was an ex-PM.

I loved staying in the 1930s house, with its original woodwork, simple furnishings and veranda overlooking the sea. This, for me, felt like the quintessential Caribbean.

For those wanting a bit more luxury and larger rooms, the Frangipani also has garden cottages, built from local stone and hardwoods, and located on a low rise in the grounds of the property.

Graded into Garden, Deluxe Hillside and Air Con Deluxe, all ensuite rooms are super comfortable and cool, with stone and wood interiors.

From their terraces, the view of Admiralty Bay is superb.

Rooms at the Frangipani vary from US$50 for single use of a Standard room in the original house in low season, to US$250 for the Air Con Deluxe in high season. A 10% service charge is not included.

The Frangi, with its unbeatable seafront location, charm, relaxed atmosphere, interesting local history and friendly family-run atmosphere is a recommendation for anyone coming to Bequia.

For further information, please visit www.frangipanibequia.com

Beachcombers, from beachside cottage to boutique hotel

Five kilometres east of Kingstown, St Vincent's capital,  is a stretch of coastline with white sand beaches, turquoise waters and shallow reefs. Bequia island in the distance marks the start of the Grenadines.

I arrived there mid-morning, and headed straight for the pier, from where I looked down onto inviting transparent waters. A twenty-something woman was having her lunch-break, feet dangling over the edge, joined by a young guy with a radio.

Along Villa beach, the view was out over a shallow channel to Young Island.

I went in to see Beachcombers, a family-owned hotel, now managed by the third generation. It started off as a weekend seaside cottage in a garden of mango and guava trees, where the current managers spent their childhood holidays. Slowly, it turned into a small bed and breakfast. On the veranda, breakfast was served from antique mahogany trays, originally shipped out from Scotland, when the family emigrated to St Vincent.

In the early 90s, more cottages were built, along with a beachside pool and open dining area, turning the bed and breakfast into a boutique hotel.

The family has purposefully limited the number of rooms, to maintain the peaceful nature of Beachcombers, with its gardens leading down to the sea.

Within the gardens, there is a wooden cottage, built in a traditional island style, which houses the Standard Rooms.

Recently, a luxury two-storey Caribbean-style house has been completed. Overlooking the sea, each of these rooms has a large terrace.

Downstairs are the Deluxe Rooms, fit for any distinguished traveller.

Upstairs are the even more luxurious Suites and Super Deluxe Rooms, with marvellous four-poster beds, cool wooden floors, modern kitchenettes, dining areas and large private terraces.

If you're wanting to treat yourself (you don't need to be a visiting head of state or owner of a successful company), you may choose to stay in the Presidential Suite, which feels like a house in its own right. A huge bed, tasteful dark wooden furnishings, luxurious bathroom, fully-equipped kitchen, dining table for six, lounge and terrace all come included. 

Beachcombers recently had a group of Caribbean Prime Ministers staying here. I would love to find out which country's leader had the fortune of staying in the Presidential Suite, and whether the decision was made on the toss of a coin or a high-powered negotiation between island states. Would the lucky one have been Anguilla, St Vincent, Grenada or Trinidad?

In any case, Carlita who works behind the bar, later told me that the Prime Ministers were all very charming, approachable and down-to-earth. Maybe they decided it would be unfair for one person to get the best room.

Then, chatty smiley Carlita wanted to serve me a local fruit juice. I tried something I never had or even heard of before- golden apple. Very refreshing, the fruit (as in the photo) was picked from a tree in the hotel garden. She laughed, as she told me that each country had a different name for it- golden apple here, plum in Jamaica and pomme-sette in Trinidad.

All the staff I met at Beachcombers were super friendly. Carlita at the bar, Alex in the kitchen, Karen who showed me around, the smiling receptionists and Beverley, third generation joint-manager. The place has skillfully managed to maintain the relaxed, friendly and happy feel of a family's beachside house.

Apart from Prime Ministers and Canadian musicians, Beachcombers is popular with those wanting a quiet, natural place to stay on the island. Guests include businessmen, mountain hikers and explorers, divers, beach-lovers, honeymooners and yachties on the way to the Grenadines. 

With superb value for money, prices range from US$65 for a single occupancy of a Standard Room in low season to US$275 for double occupancy of the Presidential Suite in high season. Prices are for room only and exclude 20% taxes. For further information, please visit www.beachcombershotel.com