There are more than thirty islands in the small and relatively unvisited Caribbean nation of St Vincent and the Grenadines, and each of them has its own character, making this a country where you could spend weeks exploring. And it will be a happy time in a beautiful country- I found Vincentians (or Vincys, as they call themselves) to be a wonderful people- lively, gregarious, friendly, chatty, generous and who go out of their way to help.
Starting in the north is the largest island of them all- St Vincent. It’s tall, rugged, green and volcanic, with coconut and banana plantations, coastal fishing villages and the colonial capital Kingstown. Windswept and empty black sand beaches are on the east coast and sheltered coves are on the west. St Vincent has good hiking- up the Soufriere volcano (still active), through rainforests and mountains and on to waterfalls. There are Amerindian rock carvings and botanical gardens to visit. Clear waters and fringing reefs make this a good place for snorkeling and scuba diving.
Like other Windward islands, St Vincent is relatively poor, undeveloped and un-touristy, making it feel authentic and giving it character. Kingstown does have an edgy side to it, with a few druggies in the streets, so you have to use common sense and it’s probably best to avoid walking around at night. All other parts on the island seem perfectly safe.
South of the main island of St Vincent are the much smaller Grenadines, a set of islands strung out like a kite’s tail in the wind. They are idyllic, and a paradise for sailors, snorkelers, scuba divers and for those who want to spend time in quiet and charming places, away from it all. There are five key islands- Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau and Union- and then multiple islets, cays and rocky outcrops. Volcanic in origin like St Vincent, they are however much lower in height, typified by rounded hills and covered in scrub forest, thorny acacia and cacti. The climate is dry, the sun intense and there is little agriculture. What do well here are goats, chickens and rangy dogs, all of which seem to outnumber people. What attracts people most to the Grenadines are the stunning and un-spoilt white sand beaches, shallow turquoise seas, coral reefs and steady trade winds. This is one of the best places in the world for sailing and yacht chartering.
The first island south of St Vincent is Bequia (pronounced Bek-way), a charming island, with a colonial history and a maritime background, where boat-building, fishing, diving and receiving visiting yachts are key to today’s local economy. Port Elizabeth is the main settlement, a small town in the beautiful Admiralty Bay, where life unfolds at a slow pace on the waterfront and under the shade of the Indian almond trees. All around the island, there are quiet beaches, transparent seas, old sugar plantations and forested hills dotted with the homes of the 6000 or so locals and foreigners.
Next down the chain of islands is the privately-owned Mustique. With low rolling hills, white sand beaches, aquamarine seas and seclusion, Mustique attracts the wealthy, famous and aristocratic. Private villas and boutique hotels are limited in number, so the island has few visitors and privacy is never in short supply. Prices reflect the exclusive nature of the island, with a short stay setting you back a few thousand dollars. On the other hand, there is no charge for yacht charterers to go ashore and the mooring fee is a reasonable US$75 for up to three nights. While not offering an authentic Caribbean island experience, Mustique does seclusion and luxury better than any other island in the Grenadines.
Canouan, half way down the Grenadines, is a dry, hilly and little-visited island. Shaped liked a scythe, it is thin and curving in the south, square-shaped and rugged in the north. It feels like two islands. The small settlement of Charlestown, with its pier and houses rising up hills takes up the south and is where locals live. It's a quiet place, with a couple of guesthouses, the Tamarind Hotel, a school and bank, a handful of small bars and shops and a building serving as a fruit market. The northern half is an exclusive private enclave, made of up Canouan Resort (with golf course and spa) along with the private villas of Grenadines Estates, all set amongst dry wooded hills and surrounded by an indented coastline of rocky cliffs and small beaches. On Canouan, what stands out is the long fringing reef with its shallow turquoise lagoon and empty beaches, along the windward side.
The little island of Mayreau is idyllic, with 94% of the island given over to nature. There are rocky hills with thorny acacia woodland, a salt marsh and mangroves and empty wild beaches on all sides, some only accessible by boat or tracks through prickly cacti. There is only one settlement on the island, an un-named village on a hillside above the pier, where the two-hundred or so inhabitants live. Here, there is a guesthouse, several seafood restaurants catering to yachties and a 1929 Roman Catholic church looking out over reefs and the Tobago Cays marine park. There is no bank on Mayreau, rainwater is collected off rooftops and electricity was only introduced in 2003. And there is only one road on the island, more a track infact than a road, crossing over to Saltwhistle Bay, where there are bungalows below palm trees, a couple of local beach bars and yachts anchoring in calm sheltered waters. Around from Saltwhistle Bay is the windward set of beaches, which are out of this world.
Off-shore from Mayreau are the Tobago Cays, a cluster of five small uninhabited islands, romantically called Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradal, Petit Tabac and Jamesby. With powdery white beaches, coastal scrubland and unbelievably clear aquamarine waters, all surrounded by the protective Horse Shoe coral reef, it doesn’t get more idyllic or beautiful than this. Since 1997, the Tobago Cays (along with Mayreau, Catholic, Jondall and Mayreau Baleine islands) have been protected as a marine park. Pristine-looking, it is hard to believe that the islands were once used for the growing of cotton, production of coral lime and fishing of conch. Green turtles swim all year round in conch-populated seagrass beds, surfacing for air between moored yachts, while iguanas scurry across rocks on the islands and egrets peck away in the shallows. The Tobago Cays are a favourite stop-over for those sailing through the Grenadines and they can also be easily reached from Union, Palm and Mayreau islands, either on an organized day sailing trip through hotels or by speaking to local fishermen on the docksides who will take you over for a small fee.
The southernmost of the main Grenadines is Union Island, locally nicknamed Tahiti, for its sharp volcanic peaks and reef-fringed lagoons. Clifton is the main entry point to Union, with its small airstrip and pier, and it has a lively little harbour with colourful fishing boats, ferries and waterfront restaurants and hotels. Further down the coast is the village of Ashton, from where a motorized boat makes twice weekly trips (Monday and Thursday, 0730 hrs) to Carriacou island in Grenada. A walk up to the top of the 1000 foot high Mt Taboi rewards those with views over the Grenadine islands. Within a short boat trip are the surrounding southern Grenadines, including Petit St Vincent and Palm islands, two private resorts. Union was privately leased as a cotton plantation until the British Crown bought it in 1910, the first car was introduced in 1956 and today it still retains the small island charm and friendliness, so typical of the Grenadines.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Although there are no direct flights from outside the Caribbean to St Vincent and the Grenadines, there are gateways from six other other islands (Barbados, Grenada, Martinique, St Lucia, Puerto Rico and Trinidad). LIAT and SVG Air provide onward connections to St Vincent, as well as the Grenadine islands of Bequia, Canouan, Mustique and Union Islands.
Getting from the main island of St Vincent to the smaller Grenadines can also be done by cargo and passenger ferries, which are reasonable in price and a fun way to travel. From Kingstown, stopping off at Bequia, Canouan, Mayreau and Union, the MV Barracuda (784) 455 9835 departs on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 11 am; and the MV Gemstar (784) 526 1158 on Tuesdays and Fridays at noon. For Bequia, there are additionally regular daily services with the Bequia Express (784) 457 3539 bequiaexpress@vincysurf.com and Admiralty Transport (784) 458 3348 admiraltrans@vincysurf.com between 6:30 am and 4:30 pm. Newly operating is the Jaden Sun fast ferry (784) 451 2192 http://www.jadeninc.com/ stopping off at Bequia, Canouan (Mayreau on a need basis) and Union, and leaving Kingstown on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 9 am, Sundays at 4 pm, Mondays at 3pm. On all ferries, times are liable to change, so check timetables at the Kingstown ferry terminal.
Getting from Union Island to Carriacou (an island in the nation of Grenada), can be done once a month on the MV Gem Star and twice a week (Mondays and Thursdays) on the Jaden private motorboat from the village of Ashton at 7:30 am. Make sure you obtain an exit stamp the day before from the immigration office at the airport in Clifton.
Tickets for all ferry services can be bought onboard.
Getting around St Vincent by minibus is easy. There are two terminals in Kingstown, one for buses heading up the windward coast and the other for the leeward side. Union Island and Bequia also have minibuses starting in town. However, the Grenadines are so small that you can infact walk around them in a day.
Cars and scooters can be rented on St Vincent, and scooters on Bequia.
ACCOMMODATION
There are surprisingly few places to stay on the main island St Vincent, reflecting the low numbers of tourists visiting. Most are located either on the southern tip (between Villa and Ratho Mill) or in and around Kingstown. A few other hotels do exist in other parts of the island, but to a very limited degree.
Recommendations include:
Beachcombers, a laid-back, quiet and friendly family-run hotel in gardens leading down to Villa beach, with a pool, deck, spa, al-fresco dining area and bar. Beachcombers is a great base for visiting St Vincent and is a favourite amongst yachties, hikers, young couples and families. It has even hosted a Canadian music band and Caribbean prime ministers. With superb value for money, prices range from US$65 for a single occupany of a Standard Room in low season to US$275 for double occupany of the Presidential Suite in the high season. Prices are for room only and exclude 20% taxes. For further information, please visit www.beachcombershotel.com
The private 35 acre Young Island resort, where barefoot chic is the ambience, is a short boat ride across from Villa beach. The island has a white sand beach leading into clear waters, accommodation in comfortable hillside cottages, an al-fresco beachside restaurant and bar, nature trails, pool, spa, tennis court, non-motorised water equipment and scuba diving. There are four grades of cottages, ranging from the Superior (from US$448 per night) up to a private house called the Duvernette Suite (from US$892). Rates are based on double occupancy and include half board and all taxes. There are also various packages to choose from. For further information, please visit www.youngisland.com
Barefoot Suites is a friendly family-run operation, on the Ratho Mill coast just beyond Villa. There are five double rooms with a veranda and view of the sea and Bequia island, set in gardens leading down to the sea. Here, there is the Barefoot yacht chartering operation, so the rooms are often used for a night before setting off sailing. In the grounds is the Driftwood al-fresco restaurant serving all meals, including probably the best Mediterranean cuisine on the island. Rates are US$90 for double occupancy, US$140 for four-person occupancy, excluding the 10% tax. For further information, please visit www.barefootyachts.com
The Cobblestone Inn is an 18th century brick and stone building, full of character, in the centre of Kingstown, looking out over the harbour, and within walking distance of the ferries and markets. Upstairs there is the rooftop restaurant and bar, with Caribbean cuisine, whilst downstairs is Basil’s Bar and Restaurant, a good place to have a drink in the evening. Rooms from US$75 per night, excluding taxes http://www.thecobblestoneinn.com/
Bequia has an excellent selection of accommodation, from reasonably-priced guesthouses, to privately-owned boutique hotels, plantation resorts and private hillside villas.
The Frangipani, with its lovely bayfront location in Port Elizabeth, charm, relaxed and friendly atmosphere, interesting history (it has been in the Mitchell boat-building and political family since the 1800s) is a recommendation for anyone visiting Bequia. It's great for either a stay or to drop by and have a beer in the waterfront bar and garden, as you sit chatting to yachties and watch the sun set. Rooms vary from US$50 for single use of a Standard Room in the original 1930s house in low season, to US$250 for the Air Con Deluxe in high season. A 10% service charge is not included. For further information, please visit www.frangipanibequia.com
The Frangipani, with its lovely bayfront location in Port Elizabeth, charm, relaxed and friendly atmosphere, interesting history (it has been in the Mitchell boat-building and political family since the 1800s) is a recommendation for anyone visiting Bequia. It's great for either a stay or to drop by and have a beer in the waterfront bar and garden, as you sit chatting to yachties and watch the sun set. Rooms vary from US$50 for single use of a Standard Room in the original 1930s house in low season, to US$250 for the Air Con Deluxe in high season. A 10% service charge is not included. For further information, please visit www.frangipanibequia.com
Firefly Plantation Hotel is set in 35 acres of a former and historic sugar cane plantation in the Spring area of Bequia. Nowadays, the grounds are covered in coconut palms, mango trees, citrus and a whole range of other fruit trees. The old plantation house still stands. There is a pool, al-fresco dining area and bar on a hill with wonderful views over the palm trees and Spring Bay. Double guest rooms are US$395 per night and the Plantation Cottage for a family is US$795. Rates are based on two people sharing and include breakfast and afternoon tea, but exclude taxes. A Best of Both World Special package with full board, and combining four nights at Firefly Plantation Hotel on Bequia with four at Firefly Mustique, along with transfers between islands is US$2499 per person, excluding taxes. For further information, please visit www.fireflybequia.com
Recommended on Canouan island is the Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club. With an ideal setting, behind a long white sand beach, and with crystal-clear waters in a protected bay, it is the perfect place in which to unwind. Accommodation is in comfortable and spacious beach-side rooms, surrounded by tropical gardens, and there are lots of outdoor and underwater activities available. Rates start at US$260 plus taxes per double per night, on a bed and breakfast basis, inclusive of non-motorized water sports, wifi and transfers to and from Canouan airport. Additional activities such as scuba diving and excursions to other islands and the Tobago Cays marine park are also available, at extra charge. For further information, please visit www.tamarindbeachhotel.com
Watch this space! Further entries for recommended accommodation in St Vincent and the Grenadines are being added to this page.
INFORMATION FOR CRUISING SAILORS
Please refer to the useful information in Noonsite:
http://www.noonsite.com/Countries/StVincenttheGrenadines
