Thursday, April 21, 2011

Papillote Wilderness Retreat

Just below Trafalgar Falls in rainforest at 1000 feet above sea level is Papillote Wilderness Retreat.

I got there in the afternoon, after a day's hiking in the Trois Pitons national park and a swim up the Titou Gorge.

Papillote is in a peaceful location, with views of the mountains and set amongst four acres of tropical gardens (with an additional ten of wild rainforest), plus two waterfalls and various natural hot springs. In other words, idyllic. Everything is steep, wild and gorgeous, as I read in the National Geographic Traveler.

Within the gardens, trails cross over hot thermal streams and cold mineral ones, and it's possible to go through the forest to the Trafalgar Falls themselves. Walking around the property, I saw orchids, bromeliads, ferns, begonias, gingers and many more plants and trees (there are 600 species in total).  And I was astonished by all the birds (especially hummingbirds) and butterflies.





For hikers and explorers, there's a wealth of walks and natural sights nearby, including Trafalgar and Middleham Falls, Boiling and Freshwater Lake, thermal streams of Wotten Waven and Titou Gorge.

But it's also a place where I would choose to come and stay at to relax in seclusion with family or a few friends. Imagining myself arriving off a plane, leaving behind a stressful corporate life, I would go straight for a jump into the cold pool below the waterfall, then soak in the outdoor natural hot baths for hours while dreaming away and unwinding. Then I would wander around the gardens, taking photos, and perhaps read a book under a tree fern. I'd certainly have a freshly squeezed fruit juice on the bar terrace while looking over mountains. By the time I'd done all of that, I'd be truly recharged and ready for exploring the island!


As I walked around, I kept seeing hot pools, which were tempting me in.


I saw that cottages also have their own private hot pools.


And each one is set in its own private part of the gardens.

 
Inside, I found rooms that are lit by natural sunlight and designed simply and comfortably, with tons of space, tasteful furnishings and huge beds.

Forget friends and family. I would choose this for a honeymoon!


What's more, I found Papillote to be a friendly and reasonably-priced place. It has been in the same family for fifty years (originally starting out as a restaurant and thermal pool break for weary hikers walking up to Trafalgar Falls). I was shown around by one of the family- Marvin, a nephew of the founders, who spent his youth in Guadeloupe and who is currently managing Papillote, which he justly describes as paradise.

Double rooms cost US$139, inclusive of the 20% taxes. Papillote has a terrace restaurant, offers massages and organises guided tours around the island (it also offers 7 night all-inclusive packages), so you can do it all from here.

For further information, please visit Papillote Wilderness Retreat.

To read up on the nearby Trafalgar Falls, see the article Adventuring South - Trafalgar Falls.