Victoria Falls

Just up from Pointe Mulatre Bay, near the village of Delices, is Victoria Falls.  

The walk starts at the Zion Valley Rastarant (not a spelling mistake).

As I got there, a truck full of friendly rastafarians was leaving. They had just brought back the wreckage of a pickup truck which had gone into a ravine (luckily nobody was injured).

The walk up to Victoria Falls is an interesting one, following the river all the way, and crossing it five times. The river swells shortly after rains, so it's vital to be on alert. When I went up, it was waist deep at the crossings.

I attached myself to a couple from Guadeloupe with a guide who knew the way and where to cross (without a guide, it would be hard to know where to go). Here we are at one point in the river, as we began to approach the falls.

Clambering up river boulders was another feature of this walk. Despite being smooth, rocks were luckily not too slippery.

This is the impressive Victoria Falls. At eighty metres, I could just about fit its whole length into a photo taken from afar.

At its base, the waterfall crashed onto rocks and then a pool. With the people in the foreground, you can see the scale of it (only the bottom quarter of the falls is shown).

The pool was great to swim in, and I really felt the force of the waterfall, as it produced waves and a very strong wind full of water vapour (which stung my face when I swam towards the falls). I clung to the rocks at the side of the falls, but I knew it would be too dangerous to try to swim through the centre, due to the downward force and risk of rocks in the river being brought over the edge.

I decided to head back on my own, thinking it would be easy to retrace our steps. It was OK most of the way, but I did get temporarily lost at one stage during a heavy shower.

I sheltered under a rock for twenty minutes, before finding my way again back to the start.

Pointe Mulatre Bay

On Dominica's rugged southeast coast is Pointe Mulatre Bay.

I got there on a stormy day, when powerful waves were breaking onshore:

Rosalie Bay

After exploring the secret beaches of this rugged section of Dominica's east coast, I walked back past banks of tree ferns and a banana plantation on the winding road to Rosalie Bay. 

Here, there is another stunning stretch of coastline, with a long beach bordered by palm trees and set against a background of cliffs. There was not another soul in sight.

I found a couple of wooden benches by the river and volcanic rock beach. After my morning of trekking up and down headlands to secret coves and beaches, it was a great place to just sit, relax and admire the view. I could've sat on there for hours, watching the waves and the occasional yacht passing on the horizon.



Today was a calm day, but, even so, steep breakers crashed on-shore (I swam instead in the clear and gently-flowing river, which was great- totally refreshing and cleansing).

I loved the silhouette formed by the palm trees.

Behind the beach and set within tropical gardens, is Rosalie Bay Nature Resort.

I was greeted by Cindy, a friendly receptionist from the local village of Grand Fond, who showed me around. Rosalie Bay opened a few months ago she explained to me, and it is the only resort of its kind in Dominica (which tends to have small guesthouses and boutique hotels).

In its large gardens, Rosalie Bay Nature Resort has 28 elegantly furnished rooms and suites in private cottages. In the photo below are the garden view rooms, near the pool and gym, and with partial views of Rosalie river. In the background is a wind turbine, which provides much of the electricity for the resort. It was a huge investment and commitment for the owners- having to ship it in specially and then get it across the island's mountainous interior before assembly. For the resort, environmental protection is a priority.

Overlooking the sea and river, I was shown beautiful and luxurious Riverside, Oceanfront and Deluxe Oceanfront suites. Each has tons of space, a huge four-poster bed, marble bathroom with shower and bathtub and lounge area with hardwood furniture. Balconies have views of either the river or sea. Rooms also have wifi, flat-screen televisions and MP3 docking stations for those who want to keep in touch with the outside world.

One could, of course, easily choose to ignore all the latest technology in a place like this- I would be spending all my time outdoors and using Rosalie Bay as my base for exploring the island. And, if I was staying in the Deluxe Oceanfront suite, I would also be spending time in the Jacuzzi Air Bath to soothe those sore hiking legs! For anyone staying, the resort also has its own spa and masseur.

I would also spend time here, by the pool, with a good book.

In the background is the peak of Morne Trois Pitons, one of the highest mountains on the island, and a must for serious hikers. The resort can organise guided tours all around the island, but even within a stone's throw it's possible to have a garden tour, bird-watch, see turtles come onshore at night to lay their eggs, or use kayaks on the Rosalie river. And for those interested in cooking, there are classes available to learn how to make local creole dishes.

Beyond the pool is Zamaan's restaurant and bar, situated by the beach and river. I love the way it has been built in the style of a Dominican country house.

This is the island-style bar inside Zamaan's.

Returning to the beach at the far end of the resort, I saw that it was composed of pure volcanic sand.

At the end, where beach meets cliff, trees have been shaped by the steady onshore wind.

Above the high tide mark and under some palms, I went to check out a couple of tents. They are used as turtle hatcheries, set up in a joint turtle conservation project between Rosalie Bay Nature Resort and the local community.

Leatherback, Hawksbill and Green turtles come ashore at night in the April-September egg-laying season, and Rosalie Bay is one several beaches on the east coast of Dominica where this happens. So, for those staying in the resort at this time of year, it's an opportunity not to miss.

Here, a huge leatherback turtle is being measured.

It had laid eggs too close to the water, so to ensure that turtles hatch from them, they were transferred further up the beach, behind a fenced-off area. By such actions and with an education project in place, numbers will begin to recover to their original state (which, over the years, had been diminished by hunting). 

Here, you can see just how large Leatherbacks are.

Rosalie Bay really is an idyllic place, with its volcanic beach, clear river, tropical gardens, mountain views, stunning eastern coastline and ample opportunities to explore the island and nature-watch.

For those wanting to stay here, Rosalie Bay Nature Resort is a great option. 

In April 2011, the resort was offering grand opening special rates: 

US$185 for Garden View Rooms

US$250 for Garden/Oceanview Suites

US$350 for Oceanfront and Riverside Suites

US$450 for the Oceanfront Deluxe Suite. 

For further information, please visit their website, Rosalie Bay Nature Resort

Cinnamon and bay oil from the forest

Walking further along the winding east coast road of Dominica, and then heading down a side road to another headland, I started imagining the scent of sweet spices.

It was getting stronger as I neared a woman and a young guy at the side of the road, who were scraping at the bark of some tree trunks. I stopped to chat and ask what sort of wood it was and why they were taking off the bark.

Cinnamon, she said.

I was amazed to have stumbled upon something so exotic, and they found it amusing that I was so interested.

As was pointed out to me, behind them was a cinnamon plantation. Saplings had been planted and after between eight and twelve years, the trees have to be cut in order to remove the inner bark. Saplings are replanted after harvest, guaranteeing a constant supply.

Here are strips of fresh cinnamon cut off trunks. The outer hard bark is scraped off, leaving the more succulent inner bark.

 

They gave me a piece to try. Before drying you can chew on the cinnamon and suck out its flavour.

In the sun was cinnamon in the process of drying. As it does so, it begins to curl up.

Outside their house, they had some more drying in the sun.

Here it was, almost completely dry and akin to what can be bought in specialist delicatessens and health food shops in Europe.

At the end of the path, on a headland overlooking the sea, was another small plantation in the forest. This time is was West Indian Bay trees, which are unrelated to bay leaves. When squeezing the leaves, they produce a fragrant aroma and it is this which goes on to produce Bay Rum, a distillate used in colognes and after shave lotions.

 

In a small shed by the side of the road, there were bundles of West Indian Bay leaves which had been pressed to extract the oil and then dried (to then be used to make local teas). A concentrated aroma from oils in the press filled the shed.

 

Sleeping under nutmeg and clove trees, seeing coffee and cocoa growing around the island and now cinnamon and West Indian bay. This really is a spice island. And I still have to see the vanilla in the north.

Secret beaches

There was a 7 a.m. minivan bus to Rosalie Bay on the east coast which I wanted to catch.

I got to the spot near the fruit and vegetable market in Roseau, from where I had been told the Rosalie minivans left. The first one to Rosalie would be at 1 pm I was told, when I enquired a bus driver heading in another direction and waiting for passengers. My source of information hadn't been too reliable!

So, I did what the bus driver told me. Catch the first bus to Canefield airport just outside town and then wait by the junction for the cross-island road, for either a bus or a hitch. It was only 10 minutes before a minivan heading to the Pont Casse roundabout in the centre of the island turned up. And then, twenty minutes later, I hopped out with a woman who sold food to tourists at Emerald Pool (a waterfall and natural pool in the rainforest). A few minutes by the side of the road, chatting, and the first car on the road to Rosalie stopped and picked us up. It was a fun journey, listening to reggae, chatting to the young driver and looking out at mountains and rainforest. Rosalie Bay was another twenty minutes and I got dropped off just across the bridge at the Grand Fond junction. I was surprised at how smoothly and quickly this journey went.

On the rugged east coast, I wanted to follow the coastal road south, to see village life, walk past banana plantations and trek down to deserted beaches.

Here is the view as I walked along.

On one path going down to a beach, I managed to photograph one of the large lizards.

I got down to one of the black sand beaches, which true to its name was secret and deserted. At the back of the beach, there were lots of sprouting coconuts.

Here was the beach. Waves washed onshore.

And there was a stream heading out to sea. I felt like I was in a scene from Robinson Crusoe.



Carib Territory

One rainy Saturday, I took a minivan bus across the island to the Carib Territory.

It's a 3,700-acre reserve (formalized in 1903) on the mountainous east coast of Dominica and was established for the descendants of the indigenous Carib people (or Kalinago), who inhabited Dominica prior to European colonization. Dominica is one of the few places in the Caribbean where Carib people survived, in part due to the east coast's remoteness and lack of development.

The Carib population in Dominica remained largely isolated from the rest of the island throughout most of the 20th century. Now, the present population is estimated at 3,000 and like other Amerinidian communities in South America, residents share communal ownership of all land. 

I decided to get dropped off at the side of the road in a village where the L'Escalier Tête-chien, or the Snake's staircase (direct translation: dog head staircase), is located. It's a lava feature resembling a snake emerging from the sea, and is part of Carib mythology, so it sounded interesting to see. 

I jumped out into the pelting rain and ran for shelter in a bus stop. Next door, a rickety bar was overflowing with Saturday Carib beer drinkers. I think they were slightly bemused by my appearance. There in the bus stop, I chatted to a few of the guys, Amerindian-African in appearance, some reserved, others enebriated and wanting to be my guides.

Once the rain ceased, I followed a path towards the sea and got to the village karbet (a traditional village ceremonial and events hall).

With its high thatched roof, it was similar to those I saw in the Amazon. The posts were decorated in a basket weave.

Further on, a field of cassava, also a typical Amerindian staple.

Here is an artisitic representation of the creation of the lava snake, painted on a wall by the path.

Volcanic boulder rocks cover the slopes leading down to the sea.

Then, I reached a viewpoint, looking out over the rugged east coast.

You can see why this coast remained undeveloped.

As the path reaches the top of a low cliff, the lava snake comes into view. Emerging out of the sea, it meanders up to where I took this photo.

I walked down to the rough sea and then as dark grey clouds and heavy rain approached, I found shelter in a small cave for the next twenty minutes. Looking back at the painting, it's where the two Amerindians were blowing smoke out of their mouth onto the menacing serpent.