As I got higher, there were stunning views over the forest below and the mountains in the distance.
After an hour, I got to a small farmhouse with two barking dogs, and just beyond that a wooden gate opening into the thick forest. I'd been told that the trail from this point was easy to follow- just keep to the main one was the advice. So that's what I did and the narrow but well-worn path continued on down into the next valley, winding its way between steep slopes, around rock outctrops and over river crossings, always under a dense canopy, where the details of the forest were in constant change and there was so much to see.
Shortly after the river crossing, the forest opened up, showing a view of the far mountains and the valley where I was supposed to be.
Another km or so, and I got to a barbed wire fence and I could hear far-off voices down below. A good sign. More walking and then there were some tree ferns. Next, the path bordered the upper reaches of fields as I began to see a village further in the distance.
Half an hour later, I came out onto the tarmac road, just by a shop which had the best trout in the region. I couldn't resist. A couple of smoked trout got wrapped up in newspaper and stuffed into the top of my back-pack.
It was a short bus ride to the Friburgo bus station and all the surrounding shops of lingerie. The contrast couldn't have been greater.
My bus back to down to Niteroi was only going to leave in a couple of hours' time. I grabbed some lunch and then found a café by the river where I had a Guaraná and got talking to the waiter who goes mountain-biking in the same valley where I'd been staying.
.........
A few days later, the mountains were hit by heavy rains and catastrophic landslides and floods.
Friburgo was particularly badly affected, with around 300 people losing their lives, and parts of the town destroyed.
The valley I'd been camping in was apparently fine, with the river rising but not causing any damage. However, as I saw the terrible scenes on TV, I couldn't help thinking about the people I'd met around the Friburgo bus station, hoping they were all OK.
It was very sad news about such a wonderful place.
Friburgo was particularly badly affected, with around 300 people losing their lives, and parts of the town destroyed.
The valley I'd been camping in was apparently fine, with the river rising but not causing any damage. However, as I saw the terrible scenes on TV, I couldn't help thinking about the people I'd met around the Friburgo bus station, hoping they were all OK.
It was very sad news about such a wonderful place.
