Morne Trois Pitons (mountain of three peaks) national park, located in the centre of Dominica, is named after the island's second highest mountain, which is just over 4000 feet. A dormant volcano, it has its lower slopes covered in rainforest and its highest in low, scrubby and mossy elfin woodland. Apart from the volcano itself, this forested and mountainous park contains many of Dominica's most impressive natural features, including several lakes (Boiling, Boeri, Freshwater) and waterfalls (Trafalgar, Middleham, Emerald Pool). It became a World Heritage Site in 1997.
Towards the end of my stay in Dominica, two things still remaining on my list were Emerald Pool and Morne Trois Pitons, so I had to get up to the mountains, rain or shine.
By now I was a pro at catching local minibuses around the island, and I sat in the front of one of these, talking to the friendly driver who was heading over to Rosalie on the windward side of the island. I was lucky to catch his bus he said. If he hadn't stopped to buy bread, I would've missed him.
I got dropped off at the Emerald Pool junction and walked down a country road to the entrance. From here, the trail led through beautiful green forest, where the trees were some of the oldest and largest I'd seen in Dominica (strong hurricanes, such as David in 1979, are capable of knocking down whole forests, thus trees in the Caribbean are rarely as large as those seen in South America, which is out of the path of these storms).
By the trail, there was a tumbling river.
It cascaded over a rock ledge into a pool below. Even on this mainly overcast day, the emerald colour of the pool showed up. Another impressive waterfall on an island with so many.
From here, it took just over an hour to get back to the start of the Trois Pitons trail (starting near the Pont Casse roundabout) on a forest trail over roughly paved rocks and crossing several rivers. This section is part of the Waitukubuli trail which traverses Dominica from south to north.
Reaching the road, I could see that the peaks were covered in dense clouds, but being my last chance to climb the mountain, I went for it.
It was a steep two-hour climb up a well-defined trail through dense forest. Towards the top, ropes helped get up eight-metre high rock faces. And then the final part was a surreal and almost impenetrable world of bogs, thick moss, slippery rock boulders and low contorted branches.
On the summit, I was enveloped in cold clouds being swept over me at high speed. On a clear day, one would be able to see the entire island and over to Guadeloupe and Martinique, so this would have to remain an excuse for a return trip to the island.
As I creaked and slipped my way down the mountain, there were infact a few teasing openings in the clouds below, giving me a view of the thick forests of the central part of the island.
Back on the country road again and a couple hundred metres past the roundabout in the direction of the village of Layou, the first house on the right is Harmony Villa.
Built in a colonial style, it has large verandas and a cool mountain garden, filled with tree ferns and wild ginger. After a strenous day of walking in the mountains such as today's, I would have a long hot shower, then sit in an armchair on the veranda with a nice big pot of tea.
And, for exploring the island, the location is perfect. Within a hand's throw (or more appropriately, a walk) is Morne Trois Pitons, Emerald Pool and Jacko Falls. Carrying on the Layou road by car or minibus, one would reach the central west coast. Back at the roundabout one road heads to Roseau, the southwest and southeast of the island; another to Rosalie and the Carib Territory on the east coast and another to the northeast and airport. So, it couldn't be more central.
The spacious interiors give a sense of this being a luxury mountain retreat. From the veranda, there are french doors leading into the villa, with its high cathedral ceiling and central kitchen. Off this, there is an indoor dining area and a lounge with a wood-burning stove. There is also a library, study and studio, used for artists and renewal sessions.
Bedrooms are very comfortable, with large beds and windows which let in plenty of natural light and lend a view onto the two acres of gardens and forest.
Back on the wonderful veranda, there is a large table ideal for al-fresco dining.
Harmony Villa, with its four bedrooms, sleeps eight adults. There are also fold-out and day beds which could sleep up to four children.
Rates vary from US$250 per night for the use of one bedroom up to US$550 for four bedrooms. For each additional person (after eight), the charge is US$40 per night. Rates exclude the 10% service charge. Minimum stays are two nights. There are discounts for week-long stays.
Further information on www.harmonyvilla.com
