Grand Bay is on the south-eastern side of the island, reached on a scenic drive through the mountains from Roseau. It's a beautiful, green and very quiet part of the island, completely off the beaten track.
The bay is impressive, with high cliffs, a curving boulder beach and onshore winds.
Crossing this stream running through the beach, there was a man fishing in the waves.
At the village store and bar of Dubuc, I was told that there were some waterfalls upriver. They were reached by following a track upstream through dense foliage, then walking the last stretch through the river itself.
These are the falls, cascading down rocks and forming pools at several levels.
There was a rather comical protective river crab at the base of the falls.
At the end of the bay, I passed the fishing community of Fond St Jean.
Then, the road began to climb, with vertical cliffs plunging into the sea below. This was the view across the bay to the southernmost part of the island.
Then, the road began to climb, with vertical cliffs plunging into the sea below. This was the view across the bay to the southernmost part of the island.
At the top, by pink oleanders at the roadside, I saw a sign for Zandoli Inn (named after the Zandoli lizard found on Dominica).
As I walked in, I could see a villa amongst tropical gardens and forest.
And through a clearing, the incredible view again across Grand Bay.
On a table were plenty of books about Dominica to read.
And there was more local artwork covering the walls.
Outside, there is a large terrace, bordered by bougainvillea.
Looking out from the terrace, bromeliads and orchids grow on trees which frame the view.
I couldn't resist the offer of snorkelling in the sea at the bottom of the cliffs, so I continued on my own down a garden path, passing flowering plants on the way.
Hidden from view, I found a plunge pool.
Looking out to sea. Bliss.
Down the hill, there was a side trail heading through the forest. So, I went exploring.
After a couple of hundred metres, I arrived at a headland and a lookout with the same maginificent view. Across the open sea, I made out the northern tip of Martinique, with its volcanic peak of Mt Pelee shrouded in clouds.
Below, waves crashed onto rocks.
I retraced my steps and got to the sign pointing me in the direction of the sea.
It was nailed to a tree on which a vanilla plant climbed up.
I carried on past more flowering plants.
And colourful fungi growing on moist soil.
Then, at the top of some steps, I looked down onto rocks and a translucent sea.
By the steps, a small waterfall flowed over rock boulders.
The path led directly to the water's edge.
I went in and snorkelled below the cliffs. Visibility was twenty metres and on the seabed were huge volcanic boulders covered in fan, encrusting and brain corals. Schools of iridescent blue reef fish darted about and when I dived down I saw a lobster hiding under a protrusion. I could have spent hours exploring. Later, I heard that snorkellers are sometimes surprised by sperm whales which surface from the deep waters just offshore!
As I walked in, I could see a villa amongst tropical gardens and forest.
And through a clearing, the incredible view again across Grand Bay.
I was shown around by one of the family, who first came to Dominica from Canada many years ago.
Zandoli is built in a Caribbean-Mediterranean villa style, painted in summery white and turquoise, with French windows opening onto terraces with an ocean view. It has an intimate feel, with only five rooms and plenty of privacy and peace.
In the bedroom was a painting of Grand Bay by Moses- a local artist.
Down some stairs is a small bar- the best spot I expect for a G&T or Rum Punch, at the end of a tough day in paradise.
Adjoining the bar is a sunlit dining area, where local dishes are served, incorporating plenty of fresh seafood from Fond St Jean, organic vegetables and island-raised chicken.
On a table were plenty of books about Dominica to read.
And there was more local artwork covering the walls.
Outside, there is a large terrace, bordered by bougainvillea.
Looking out from the terrace, bromeliads and orchids grow on trees which frame the view.
I couldn't resist the offer of snorkelling in the sea at the bottom of the cliffs, so I continued on my own down a garden path, passing flowering plants on the way.
Hidden from view, I found a plunge pool.
Looking out to sea. Bliss.
Down the hill, there was a side trail heading through the forest. So, I went exploring.
After a couple of hundred metres, I arrived at a headland and a lookout with the same maginificent view. Across the open sea, I made out the northern tip of Martinique, with its volcanic peak of Mt Pelee shrouded in clouds.
Below, waves crashed onto rocks.
I retraced my steps and got to the sign pointing me in the direction of the sea.
It was nailed to a tree on which a vanilla plant climbed up.
I carried on past more flowering plants.
And colourful fungi growing on moist soil.
Then, at the top of some steps, I looked down onto rocks and a translucent sea.
By the steps, a small waterfall flowed over rock boulders.
The path led directly to the water's edge.
I went in and snorkelled below the cliffs. Visibility was twenty metres and on the seabed were huge volcanic boulders covered in fan, encrusting and brain corals. Schools of iridescent blue reef fish darted about and when I dived down I saw a lobster hiding under a protrusion. I could have spent hours exploring. Later, I heard that snorkellers are sometimes surprised by sperm whales which surface from the deep waters just offshore!
It's no wonder that Zandoli has been recommended by publications such as Conde Nast Traveler and National Geographic. And for such seclusion, incredible setting and exquisite design, the price is very reasonable: a double room costs US$145 plus taxes.
Further information and reservations on the Zandoli Inn website.
