One day I caught a minivan bus up to the village of Trafalgar, twenty minutes away and located at an elevation of a few hundred metres.
Within a few minutes of leaving the centre of town, heading into the mountains up Roseau Valley, we were passing through the lush green tropical countryside of Dominica.
From the last stop in the village, I carried on up past banana and dasheen (taro) plantations.
Stream water flowing from a hollowed bamboo pipe into a large blue plastic container filled with heliconia flowers.
And a view of geothermal steam rising in columns from thickly forested mountain tops.
At the end of the valley, where the sides of the mountains are compressed into a vertical gorge, lie Trafalgar Falls, plummeting in high volume thirty metres below onto rocks and a natural pool.
Clambering over large boulders, I reached the edge of the pool and was the only person there.
I went for a swim and opening my eyes underwater, was astounded by the clarity of the water.
By the base of the falls themselves, I held onto a rock, whilst being pummeled by the falls and then swam underneath, again holding onto rocks underwater due to the current.
Holding my breath, it was an incredible experience being below the white turbulent water from the falls, descending a metre or so into the clear pool. If you do this, make sure you are a strong swimmer (used to swimming amongst large breaking waves)- currents are strong and could keep you under.
On the way back, I saw a small stream, orangey in colour.
Wondering if it was thermal, I touched the water, which felt like about 45ºc. Then I saw steam rise off the far edges by the rocks.
I couldn't resist the temptation and went for a bathe.
It was the perfect chance for a soak in thermal waters amongst river boulders, surrounded by rainforest- a unique, inspiring and incredibly relaxing experience.
