Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Tepui

From Santa Helena, I joined a group of 17 trekkers, plus guides and porters on the start of a six day walk up and down Mt Roraima, the largest and highest (2800 metre) of the two billlion year old sandstone table mountain Tepuis strung along the Venezuela/ Brazil/ Guyana border.

This was the view of other Tepuis in the distance, a few hours' walk across the savanna on day 1.


The leaders of the pack taking photos.


Porters took to mountain bikes on the rolling savanna.


Father heading back to the village, carrying his sleeping son in a traditional wicker backpack, after a hunting trip in the forests on the slopes of Mt Roraima.


At dusk, from our camp by the river, the clouds began to clear from the Tepuis.


Day 2 started by crossing three rivers, in socks for grip on the slippery rocks. The last river was chest-deep, so I resorted to an ungainly look of socks plus boxer shorts plus backpack as I clung on to a rope to cross. Then it was a steady couple of hours' uphill climb up from the savanna to the start of the forest. Lucas, a 27 year-old Pole, who spends his free time ascending the highest peaks of each continent, led the way.

At camp 2, nick-named the pig-sty for its ample mud and puddles of water, the clouds cleared again, after heavy afternoon rains which produced spectacular waterfalls coming over the edge.



Start of day 3 as we prepared for our ascent of Mt Roraima.


Bathing in fresh streams, this one at the top, I got the reputation for being the cleanest (and the most  James Bondesque) man on the trip.


From afar, the top looks flat and smooth, but once up there its a jumble of rocks, cliffs and ravines.


Four happy-looking people.


The top of the Tepui is a unique and isolated ecosystem, harbouring many endemic plant species.


Last stretch to our camp on day 3.


Time and energy to pose.


The local backpack, resting against the wall of the overhang where we would sleep.


Arrival of the group at camp. These overhangs are named as hotels. Ours was Hotel Sucre.


Porters resting. They carried all the cooking gear, food and tents.


Victorious climbers.


Exploring the rocks near camp.


Silhouette of Lucas, the mountaineer.


You can make our the tents and people at the base of the overhang. We had a two metre wide sandy ledge at the base on which to camp. It was a cool place to be, with a great view over a valley of rocks with a stream.


A natural frame, formed by rocks.


Clothes drying everywhere!


Camp life.


Small overhang where a couple of porters slept.


On our way to the highest part of Mt Roraima.


Photo from the edge.


A sheer drop of several hundred metres, mostly obscured by clouds.



Our guide, Marisol, at the cairn.


A cold group, expectantly waiting for the clouds to clear.


At Hotel Sucre, our group composed of Venezuelans, Germans, Spanish, Austrian, English, Polish, French and Americans.


Day 4, walking around the top of the Tepui. There were many sandy stream beds.


Quartz crystals abounded in these.


Amongst the rocks, larger crystals could be found.


Miniature orchids.


Tree and rocks in the area known as the Other Dimension by local tribes.


An endemic species of tiny black frog, which cannot jump. It crawls instead.


The Tepuis are known for their insectivourous plants growing on rocks and poor soils.


An abundant yellow orchid.


Bromeliads amongst boulders.


View from the Window area. Mist rising up sheer cliffs.


A brave Marisol on the ledge above the drop.


Clouds meet cliff.


The jacuzzi pools with crystals at the bottom, great for a swim.


By the late afternoon, our first moment of clear weather.


We got to the edge just in time for the sunset and walked back over the rocks in the dark.


Start of day 5 and clear blue skies seen from our camp.


Today we walked across the Tepui and back down to the pig-sty camp.


Down the edge of the cliffs.


As we came up, we walked under a strong waterfall at this point. On our way down, it was just a spray.


The luxuriant rainforest below the cliffs.


Looking out to the savanna below.


Orchids aplenty.



Fern and rock.


The golden savanna.



Clumps of thick white lichen.


View up from the pig-sty, clouds clearing again, showing where we had just been.


Walking away from the Tepui.


End of day 5. Tepui from the river where we bathed.



Our last breakfast on day 6.


Fresh flour dumplings.


Joke of this campsite. The people on the right side of the table are always really short.


Beers and smiles at the end.