Welcome to Carriacou, Grenada

On Mondays and Thursdays, the Jaden cargo and passenger boat leaves at 07:30 from the pier in the village of Ashton on Union Island (in St Vincent and the Grenadines) to Carriacou (across the channel in Grenada). Apart from chartering a flight or getting a lift on a yacht, it is the only link between the two islands.

I walked the quiet coast road from Clifton and half an hour later was there. No problem.

Across from the pier is where the fishing boats are docked.

Soon some fishermen pulled up to the pier and unloaded a crate of fish. Note the conch shell, which is blown like a horn to attract people's attention as the fishermen walk through villages, selling fish.

By this time, it was getting lively on the pier.

The crossing took half an hour, and I sat at the front of the small boat, with the rastafarian boat assistant.

Passengers disembarking.

Welcome to Carriacou in the nation of Grenada. Not well known is that Grenada is actually made of up the main island of Grenada, plus two islands in the Grenadines (Carriacou and Petit Martinique) and numerous rocky islets. Once most of the Grenadines belonged to Grenada, but all except two of these ended up becoming part of St Vincent. One of the attractions of Carriacou comes from the very fact that it is not well-known and receives few visitors. Most visitors are Grenadians (who come to spend long weekends here) or yachties passing through on their way to St Vincent and the Grenadines.

It's a very quiet island, with a population of 7000, one small town (Hillsborough), a few fishing villages and beautiful scenery (of wooded hills, white sand beaches and shallow turquoise seas). The Kayaks (natives of Carriacou) are amongst the smiliest of people that I met throughout the Caribbean.

This is the capital, Hillsborough- a gathering of houses and shops on a single road behind a beach. 

Yachts anchor in the bay.

 Bus stop in Hillsborough. Benches under the tree- a good meeting place.

In the empty market, a gathering of young women chatted and showed off.

Outside, a girl sold local produce from Carriacou and Grenada.

In the fish market, a friendly Kayak sold me a bonito tuna.

Out from Hillsborough, yachts anchor by Sandy island- a good place for snorkelling (fishermen and dive centres do day trips out here from Hillsborough). Union island can be seen on the horizon.

Around Carriacou, there are hills, wooden houses and views of small islands offshore.

I loved some of the notices pinned to posts and palm trees.

Along the way, there were stands selling bananas and mangos (both in season). The salesman here turned out to be the same guy who sold me bonito in the fish market!

I also loved these painted wooden shops.

On the northeast of the island is a small community, famous for its boat-building. Scots settled here in the 1800s as boat-builders and to this day the tradition continues. Surnames are all Scottish- McKenzies are numerous- and local villagers are descended from Scots and Africans.

Last photo from Carriacou. View across the strait to the Grenadian island of Petit Martinique.

Mayreau village

The village on Mayreau has no name.

Located on a hillside above the pier, it has a population of around 200 people (the entire population of the island). It was built on land bought by the government from Mayreau's long-time owners. The island has always been privately owned and in the olden times it was in the hands of the French and used as a cotton plantation. Today's islanders are descendants of the original plantation workers.

Nowadays, the island economy is supported by fishing and tourism. There are a few seafood restaurants, a guesthouse, a small shop and an old Catholic church with a view over the Tobago Cays.

Ferry to Mayreau

I was travelling from island to island in the Grenadines, using the cargo and passenger ferries.

Joining the islanders along with their trade goods and shopping, it's a fun and inexpensive way to travel.

More information on the Barracuda, Bequia Express, Gem Star, Jaden Sun can be found in the getting there and around section of the St Vincent and Grenadines Guide

Here are some photos as we left the pier from Canouan, on the way to Mayreau.

Charlestown, Canouan

From Bequia, I took the cargo and passenger ferry to Canouan, in the heart of the Grenadine islands.

The port of entry and only settlement on the island is Charlestown, a quiet place with a pier, fishing boats on a beach, a small bank, a handful of restaurants serving rotis and jerk chicken, fruit vendors around a purpose-made market building, a government school, two guesthouses and homes rising up hills above the harbour.

On the evening that I got there, there was music and a barbeque going on at the village basketball court, as a fundraiser for a child with heart problems. Much of Charlestown seemed to be there, and I joined them, having rice and chicken under a tarpaulin and watching a lively game of dominos, where young players would bang their hand onto the table each time they threw down their tile. I've never seen such enthusiasm and passion for this game, which is widely played throughout the Caribbean.

Although not much goes on in Charlestown, it's good as a base to stay on Canouan for a couple of days.

Fishing off the pier was a popular activity. Below, there are large schools of 10 cm long transparent fish, which guys would catch as bait. 

A boat named Goncalo, reflecing the Portuguese influence in St Vincent and the Grenadines.

From the top of Charlestown hill, the reef and lagoon on the windward side of the island could be seen.

I loved this very positive sign. It seemed the People's Bargainstore could do anything.

The fruit market building.