Sunday, June 5, 2011

Firefly Plantation

From the 1760s until the mid 1800s, sugar production was the most important economic activity on the island of Bequia. There were nine sugar plantations by the time of the demise of the industry (mainly due to competition from countries outside the Caribbean, sugar beet production in Europe and the emancipation of the islands' slaves).

One of the old sugar plantation houses can still be seen today. It's on the northeastern side of Bequia behind Spring Bay and is now part of the luxury Firefly Plantation Hotel. I got there by walking over the hill from Port Elizabeth in the heat of the day.

Entering the grounds, the old plantation house and sugar mill looks much as it would have in the 18th century, with original stonework and wooden beams in place.


Further up the hill, there was a view over this 30 acre property, which goes all the way down to Spring beach.


It's still a working plantation, not with sugar anymore, but with orchards of citrus trees, mangos, palms, bananas, breadfruit, guava, Bequia plums, along with herb gardens.

It was mango season when I visited and big old shady trees were laden with them.


One of the workers was carrying a large bunch of coconuts up to the kitchens.


These are the Bequia plums, which I had never seen before. Inside, they are white and juicy.


It's a place to relax and get away from it all. Apart from the occasional old land rover passing on the beach road, hardly a soul comes over to this side of the island. All you hear are the distant waves breaking on the reef, crickets in the garden and the rustle of leaves as the breeze picks up.


There are four large and comfortable guest rooms, up the hill behind the lodge, with their wonderful views over the palm plantation to the protected waters of Spring Bay.

Then, there is the Plantation Cottage, a house in its own right, overlooking the lawns of the garden and the mango trees further down. Bathed in natural sunlight and painted in a cool cream colour, it has two bedrooms, a large open-plan lounge, dining area and kitchen. Outside, there are two balconies. This would be a perfect place for a family.



The lounge, restaurant and bar area is built on the crest of rise, below large shady trees, overlooking the pool and palm trees. It's open on all sides to the breezes and is built of wood and stone, so it's a good place to rest in the heat of the day. Fruit, vegetables and herbs from the plantation are used in the cooking and there are local fruit juices and drinks available at the bar.


The guest rooms are US$395 per night and the Plantation Cottage is US$795. Rates are based on two people sharing and include breakfast and afternoon tea, but exclude taxes. A Best of Both Worlds Special full-board package combining four nights at Firefly Plantation Hotel on Bequia and four at Firefly Mustique, along with transfers between islands is US$2499 per person, excluding taxes. For further information, please visit www.fireflybequia.com