Twenty Two South: Brazilian Gold Rush

A couple of weeks ago I headed to Tiradentes and Sao Joao del Rei, gold-era colonial towns located in the state of Minas Gerais (inland from Rio). Here's some info on the amazing Brazilian gold rush and a few pics of these beautiful towns.

The gold rush, centred around the southern hills of Minas Gerais, began in 1698 and lasted approximately 100 years. At the time, before the gold rushes of California, South Africa and Australia, more gold was reputedly mined from Minas Gerais than the rest of the world combined, and the town of Ouro Preto with 110,000 people was twice as large as New York. Most of the gold was sent to Portugal and traded with the English in return for industrial goods. However, some of the wealth remained behind, and can still be seen to this day in the form of beautiful colonial towns with numerous churches elaborately-decorated with gold interiors.

Namoradeira looking from Tiradentes to the Sao José hills, from whence came some of the gold

The hills again, in the mist

Stone road to the river, built by slaves

Santo Antônio church, Tiradentes, completed in 1785, has an all-gold interior and a frontispiece by Aleijadinho.

Many of these churches were the work of one of Brazil’s most famous artists- Aleijadinho, who perfected the graceful Mineiro Baroque style. Using soapstone on the outside and wood inside, it included elaborate detail and more often than not, cherubic angels with wavy hair. Most incredible is that Aleijadinho, who was crippled by a debilitating disease (which meant the loss of his fingers, toes and use of his lower legs), carried on his work by strapping chisels to his arms.

Nossa Senhora Rosário dos Pretos, Tiradentes, built in 1708 on the site of a former chapel.

Interior of Sao Francisco de Assis, Aleijadinho's first complete project from 1774, in Sao Joao del Rei.

Colonial-style houses, just like the Alentejo in Portugal.

The colonial towns are between a four and six hour drive from Rio, over the mountains, and make a great long-weekend get-away. Apart from the beauty of the towns, the climate is cooler, there are stunning mountain ranges nearby and there is good rustic farm-cooking (typically bean stews, fried mandioc flour and grilled chicken). Best of all, the Mineiros are extremely down-to-earth, gentle and hospitable folk and the lifestyle is rural- still traditional and slow-paced.